What Is a Chemical, Really?
A chemical is any substance with a defined molecular composition and can be either naturally occurring or synthetically produced through chemical reactions. For example, water forms when two hydrogen atoms bond with one oxygen atom. Natural chemicals such as citric acid, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), vitamin E, glycerin, panthenol, and allantoin provide well-documented benefits for hair and skin care. However, not all natural chemicals are inherently safe; compounds like urushiol from poison ivy and cyanogenic glycosides from cassava can cause severe irritation or release toxic cyanide, respectively. This highlights an important principle in cosmetic science: “natural” does not automatically mean safe, nor does “synthetic” imply harmful. Synthetic chemicals are often manufactured to high purity standards, resulting in a reduced risk of irritation or sensitization, and offer consistent quality from batch to batch, compared to many natural extracts. While some synthetic ingredients, such as formaldehyde, certain parabens, and PFAS, have raised safety concerns, many others, like dimethicone, phenoxyethanol, and disodium EDTA, have extensive safety data supporting their low irritation potential and effective use in formulations.
Personal care products typically contain tens to hundreds of different chemicals, each serving specific functional roles such as cleansing, moisturizing, preserving, or adjusting pH. Regardless of whether ingredients are natural or synthetic, cosmetic chemists are tasked with creating formulations that are both safe and effective. To ensure this, formulators rely on comprehensive safety assessments, including raw material safety data sheets, toxicological literature, regulatory guidance from agencies such as the FDA, EU SCCS, and CIR, as well as finished product safety testing. This rigorous approach ensures that products meet safety standards while delivering the desired performance for consumers.
Why Chemicals Are Essential in Hair Care
We interact with hundreds to thousands of chemical substances daily, each with a defined function. Chemicals are fundamental to daily life, from the vitamins that support metabolic processes in our food to the hydrocarbons that fuel our vehicles and the surfactants that enable cleansing in our soaps and shampoos. In hair care, surfactants are indispensable. Sebum, environmental pollutants, and product residues accumulate on the hair fiber, altering surface properties and optical behavior. This buildup scatters light, leading to dullness and a lack of shine. Much like a rough, uneven surface reflects light poorly, contaminated hair lacks luster due to surface irregularities. To restore visual and tactile hair quality, this buildup must be effectively removed, and this is primarily achieved through shampoos containing surfactants. Surfactant molecules (yes, chemicals) are engineered to emulsify oils and suspend particulates, allowing them to be rinsed away with water. In addition to cleansing agents, pH adjustment is a critical step in cosmetic formulation. Acids (like citric acid) or bases (like potassium hydroxide) are added to optimize the pH of the final product. The pH must be tailored to the intended use. For example, maintaining a pH range of 4.5–5.5 is crucial for hair care, ensuring cuticle integrity, optimal surfactant performance, and overall product compatibility. However, effective hair clarification typically requires a pH above 5.5. Alkaline formulations, such as Un-Do-Goo, with a pH around 9, gently swell the cuticle temporarily, enhancing the removal of product buildup, silicones, and environmental residues without overly compromising hair integrity.
The Truth About Fragrances
When a consumer sees the word “fragrance” listed on an ingredient label, it typically represents a complex mixture of fragrance compounds, often comprising dozens to hundreds of individual chemicals. Fragrance can be considered its own category within the personal care industry, formulated by perfumers (specialists who work with a diverse palette of aroma chemicals that are distinct from the raw materials typically used by cosmetic chemists). These aroma compounds may be naturally derived (from essential oils, absolutes, or isolates) or synthetically produced to mimic natural scents or create entirely novel olfactory profiles. Fragrances, like surfactants or emulsifiers, often serve a functional role in product development. Scent is one of the first attributes consumers evaluate when handling a product, and a pleasant fragrance significantly influences their perception, preference, and purchase behavior. Fragrance also plays a critical role in olfactory memory, which ties scent to emotion and past experiences, making it a powerful tool for brand identity and consumer loyalty. Beyond aesthetic enhancement, fragrances are also used to mask the odor of base ingredients that may possess unpleasant natural scents, such as sulfur-containing compounds, certain surfactants, or actives. In this case, the inclusion of fragrance becomes essential to delivering a product that is sensorially appealing. Despite their benefits, fragrances can pose concerns for fragrance-sensitive individuals. In response to increasing transparency demands, the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022 (MoCRA) supports the disclosure of fragrance allergens, in alignment with existing European practices. Under this regulation, the generic term “fragrance” on an ingredient list may no longer be sufficient, as regulatory pressure increases to identify specific allergenic fragrance components. Like cosmetic chemists, perfumers must balance safety, efficacy, and sensory performance. They formulate within IFRA (International Fragrance Association) guidelines, utilize toxicological data, and consider dermal exposure limits to ensure that fragrance components meet both regulatory and safety requirements, while still achieving a pleasant and memorable olfactory profile.
Why Preservatives Matter
Any product that contains water is susceptible to microbial contamination, including the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria. To mitigate this risk, preservatives are incorporated into formulations to inhibit or eliminate microbial proliferation throughout the product’s shelf life. Common, well-tolerated preservatives include phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, caprylyl glycol, and ethylhexylglycerin, each selected based on its spectrum of activity, formulation compatibility, and safety profile. Preservatives are not exclusive to cosmetics; they are also widely used in foods, pharmaceuticals, and household products. As with all ingredients, preservatives are chemicals that serve a critical function: they extend product shelf life and help ensure that the consumer receives a product free from microbial contamination. Beyond product preservation, these ingredients are essential to consumer safety. Without preservation, products contaminated with microorganisms can cause a range of health issues, from skin infections to more severe systemic illnesses, particularly in individuals with compromised immune systems or when applied to broken skin. While “preservative-free” claims are appealing in marketing, they are only appropriate for anhydrous (water-free) formulations, such as oils, balms, and certain powders, which inherently lack the water activity needed for microbial growth. For water-containing systems, effective preservation is non-negotiable to maintain both product integrity and user safety.
What “Clean Beauty” Often Gets Wrong
Fear-based marketing in the personal care industry often relies on emotional triggers rather than scientific evidence, promoting the idea that certain ingredients are dangerous simply because they sound unfamiliar or synthetic. Claims like “chemical-free” are particularly misleading. Everything, including water and oxygen, is a chemical! These terms exploit consumer misconceptions rather than educating them. In reality, safe and effective hair care products are the result of thoughtful formulation, where cosmetic chemists evaluate ingredient safety, function, and compatibility. Not based on whether the ingredient name is intimidating, but based on toxicological data, exposure levels, and regulatory guidance. Avoiding so-called "scary" ingredients doesn't guarantee a better or safer product. Instead, it’s the science-backed selection and combination of ingredients, both natural and synthetic, that ensures performance and safety.
Science is on Your Side
Rather than approaching ingredient labels with fear, we encourage consumers to be ingredient-curious, ask questions, seek credible sources, and learn what each component actually does. Behind every well-formulated product is a team of cosmetic chemists who design with safety, stability, and performance as top priorities. Ingredients aren't chosen at random; they're selected based on toxicological data, regulatory compliance, and how they interact within a complete formula. Not every long or unfamiliar name is something to avoid. In fact, many of the most effective and well-tolerated ingredients just happen to sound complex. Curious about something you see on a label? We love talking science, so don’t hesitate to ask!
About the Author
Rina Dean is a dedicated cosmetic chemist at Malibu C, where she blends science and innovation to formulate safe, effective beauty products. Armed with a Master of Science in cosmetic chemistry and materials engineering, Rina brings deep expertise in ingredients, stability, and performance to every formula she develops. Her work is guided by a passion for clean beauty and sustainable practices, ensuring each product meets the highest standards in quality and efficacy.
